Terminology

Watch Parts

  • Bezel: The ring surrounding the watch crystal, often used to hold the crystal in place. In some watches (e.g., dive watches), the bezel is rotatable and used to track time.

  • Bracelet: The metal band that secures the watch to the wrist, often made of stainless steel, titanium, or precious metals.

  • Buckle: The clasp used to secure the watch strap or bracelet. Common types include pin buckle, deployant, or fold-over clasps.

  • Caliber (Movement): The internal mechanism that drives the hands and complications of the watch. It can be mechanical, quartz, or automatic.

  • Case: The housing that contains the movement, dial, and other internal parts of the watch. It can be made of various materials like steel, gold, titanium, or ceramic.

  • Crown: The small knob on the side of the case used to set the time, wind the watch, or adjust other functions (e.g., date).

  • Crystal: The transparent cover over the dial, typically made from sapphire, mineral glass, or acrylic.

  • Dial: The face of the watch where the time is displayed, often featuring indices, numerals, and complications.

  • Hands: The arms on the dial that indicate time (hour, minute, and seconds hands). Some watches have additional hands for complications.

  • Indices: The markers on the dial that indicate the hours or minutes.

  • Lugs: The projections on the case where the strap or bracelet is attached.

  • Rotor: In automatic watches, the weighted piece that moves with wrist motion to wind the mainspring.

  • Mainspring: A coiled spring in mechanical watches that stores energy to power the movement.

  • Subdial: A smaller dial set within the main dial that shows additional information like seconds, chronograph functions, or date.

  • Balance Wheel: A rotating wheel that oscillates back and forth to regulate the timing in mechanical watches.

  • Escapement: The mechanism that transfers energy from the mainspring to the gear train and regulates the movement.

  • Gasket: A seal used in the case, crystal, or crown to prevent water or dust from entering the watch.

  • Lume: A luminous material applied to the hands or indices to make them visible in the dark.

Watch Complications

  • Chronograph: A watch with a built-in stopwatch feature. It includes additional subdials to measure seconds, minutes, and hours.

  • Tachymeter: A scale on the bezel or dial used to measure speed over a known distance, often found on chronographs.

  • Tourbillon: A complex mechanical complication that counters the effects of gravity on the watch's accuracy by rotating the escapement.

  • GMT (Greenwich Mean Time): A watch complication that allows tracking of two time zones simultaneously, usually with an additional hand.

  • Moonphase: A complication that shows the current phase of the moon, often with a small subdial.

  • Perpetual Calendar: A complication that automatically accounts for leap years and varying days in months.

  • Annual Calendar: A complication that automatically accounts for varying days, weeks and months of the year

  • Power Reserve: An indicator showing the amount of energy remaining in the watch’s mainspring.

  • Minute Repeater: A complication that chimes the hours, quarter-hours, and minutes on demand.

  • Day/Date Function: A complication that displays the current day of the week and the date on the dial.

  • Skeleton Watch: A watch with an open dial or transparent case back to display the internal movement.

Watch Accessories

  • Strap: The band made of leather, rubber, fabric, or other materials that secures the watch to the wrist.

  • Deployant Clasp: A fold-over clasp that allows the strap or bracelet to open up for easy wear.

  • NATO Strap: A fabric strap, typically made of nylon, known for its durability and military origins.

  • Spring Bar: A small metal bar used to attach the strap or bracelet to the watch case.

  • Watch Winder: A device used to keep automatic watches wound when they’re not being worn.

  • Watch Roll: A portable case designed to store and protect watches while traveling.

  • Watch Box: A box designed to hold and protect a watch collection, often featuring cushioned compartments.

  • Watch Tool: A tool used for removing or adjusting watch parts, such as spring bars or links.

  • End Links: The part of a bracelet or strap that connects to the lugs of the watch.

Watch Movement Types

  • Mechanical Movement: A movement powered by a wound mainspring and regulated by an escapement and balance wheel, requiring manual winding.

  • Automatic Movement: A type of mechanical movement that winds itself using a rotor, which moves with the wearer’s wrist motion.

  • Quartz Movement: A movement powered by a battery, using a quartz crystal oscillator to keep time with high accuracy.

  • Solar-Powered Movement: A type of quartz movement that uses solar energy to recharge a battery.

  • Hybrid Movement: A combination of mechanical and quartz technologies, often seen in watches with mechanical hands and digital features.

Watch Jargon & Terms

  • Aftermarket: Refers to non-original parts, modifications, or accessories added to a watch after purchase.

  • Water Resistance: The watch’s ability to resist water infiltration, measured in meters or ATM (atmospheres).

  • Antimagnetic: The watch's ability to resist the effects of magnetic fields, often achieved with special materials in the movement.

  • COSC: An acronym for "Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres," which certifies Swiss watches that meet strict accuracy standards.

  • Deployant: A clasp that opens in a way that allows the watch strap to fold over itself, often used for a more secure fit.

  • Double Chronograph (Rattrapante): A chronograph complication that features two second hands, allowing the timing of two events simultaneously.

  • Horology: The science and art of timekeeping and making timepieces.

  • In-house Movement: A movement that is developed, designed, and manufactured by the watch brand itself, as opposed to being sourced from third parties.

  • Limited Edition: A watch produced in a restricted quantity, often with unique features that make it collectible.

  • OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer, referring to parts or accessories made by the watch’s brand.

  • Oversized Watch: A large-sized watch, typically with a case diameter above 44mm.

  • Patina: The natural aging process that causes materials, such as metal or leather, to develop a worn or vintage look over time.

  • Provenance: The documented history of a watch, particularly important for vintage or collectible timepieces.

  • Regatta Timer: A countdown timer used in sailing races to mark the time before the start of a race.

  • Servicing: The maintenance process where the movement and other parts of a mechanical watch are cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted.

  • Superluminova: A non-radioactive luminous material applied to watch hands and indices, commonly used for modern watches.

  • Tonneau Case: A case shape that resembles a barrel with rounded edges, distinct from the more common round or square cases.

  • Unidirectional Bezel: A bezel that only rotates in one direction (counterclockwise), commonly found in dive watches to prevent accidental timing errors.

  • SOTC: State of the Collection

  • EDC: Everyday Carry