Service & Maintenance Guide
Understanding Watch Servicing: What it Involves and Why it Matters
Regular servicing is essential to maintain a watch's precision, longevity, and overall aesthetic. Proper maintenance ensures that the movement—whether mechanical, automatic, or quartz—stays accurate, and that the watch retains its value and appearance over time.
What Watch Servicing Typically Involves
Disassembly and Inspection: The watch is completely disassembled, and each component is inspected for wear or damage.
Cleaning: Components are cleaned using ultrasonic cleaning machines to remove dirt, oil, and other residues.
Replacement of Worn Parts: Worn or damaged parts are replaced with new or refurbished ones, especially within the movement.
Lubrication: Watchmakers use specialized oils to lubricate moving parts, reducing friction and wear.
Calibration: The movement is regulated for accuracy and checked to ensure it meets the brand’s timing standards.
Water Resistance Testing: Gaskets and seals are replaced or reconditioned, and the watch is pressure-tested to ensure water resistance.
Final Reassembly and Polishing: The watch is reassembled, and the case and bracelet are polished if desired (for some luxury pieces, a polish can diminish value, so decide based on your preference).
Where to Go for Servicing
Authorized Service Centers
Authorized service centers are certified by the watch brand and employ watchmakers trained by the manufacturer. They use original parts and equipment approved by the brand.
Pros:
Warranty: Servicing at an authorized center generally preserves the warranty and is often required for warranty coverage.
Original Parts: Guaranteed access to brand-new, original parts.
Expertise: Authorized centers have specialized training in specific brands and models, ensuring precise service.
Cons:
Higher Cost: Services at an authorized center are typically more expensive than independent alternatives.
Long Wait Times: Because they are trusted by collectors, authorized centers can have extended wait times.
When to Use: Choose an authorized center for high-value watches, newer models, or when warranty preservation is important.
Independent Watchmakers
Independent watchmakers range from small shops to highly skilled artisans specializing in luxury and vintage pieces. Many independent watchmakers are certified by major watchmaking organizations.
Pros:
Potentially Lower Cost: Independent watchmakers often provide quality service for less than brand-certified centers.
Personalized Service: Independent watchmakers tend to have more flexibility and may work closely with you to understand specific service preferences.
Specialization in Vintage Models: Many vintage-watch owners turn to independent watchmakers who specialize in older movements and hard-to-find parts.
Cons:
Potential Warranty Void: Servicing outside an authorized network can void warranties on newer watches.
Varied Skill Levels: Quality and expertise can vary widely, so researching the reputation and credentials of the watchmaker is crucial.
When to Use: An independent watchmaker is ideal for vintage pieces, less valuable models, or when you need custom work that’s not available through authorized channels.
Brand Boutiques
Some high-end brands operate their own service facilities in flagship boutiques, often offering exclusive services for customers who bought directly from them.
Pros:
Complete Assurance of Quality and Authenticity: Brand boutiques adhere to brand specifications and use proprietary equipment and original parts.
Direct Support: Boutique services often provide a direct connection with brand experts who have deep knowledge of specific models.
Cons:
Limited Availability: Not all brands offer direct service in boutiques, and some are restricted to major metropolitan areas.
Higher Cost: Similar to authorized service centers, boutique servicing can be expensive.
When to Use: Brand boutique services are ideal for complex, luxury models or limited-edition pieces.
Service Frequency Recommendations by Watch Type
The frequency of servicing a watch depends on its movement, usage, and environment. Here’s a general guideline:
Mechanical and Automatic Watches
Service Interval: Every 3–5 years.
Rationale: Lubrication of moving parts degrades over time, and regular servicing maintains accuracy and longevity.
Considerations: High-end, daily-worn mechanical watches may require more frequent servicing, while models rarely worn or kept in storage can extend the interval.
Quartz Watches
Service Interval: Every 5–7 years.
Rationale: Quartz movements are simpler and require fewer services, but battery changes and seal maintenance are essential.
Considerations: Battery replacement intervals range from 1–3 years. It’s wise to have a full service when changing batteries, as old batteries can leak and cause corrosion if not replaced.
High-Complication Watches (Tourbillons, Perpetual Calendars, Chronographs)
Service Interval: Every 3–5 years, or sooner if complications show inconsistencies.
Rationale: Complicated watches have more moving parts and require precise calibration, so regular servicing is crucial to prevent malfunctions.
Considerations: High-complication watches are best serviced by authorized centers or specialized independent watchmakers to ensure accuracy and protection.
Daily Maintenance Tips for Watch Owners
Winding and Setting: Wind your mechanical watch at the same time daily to maintain a consistent power reserve. Be gentle when setting the time to avoid damaging the movement.
Avoid Magnets: Magnetic fields from electronic devices can disrupt a watch’s movement. Keep your watch away from magnets and consider having it de-magnetized if it starts losing time.
Clean the Exterior Regularly: Use a soft cloth to wipe away fingerprints, dirt, and moisture, especially around the case and bracelet.
Keep It Dry: Even water-resistant watches should be kept out of hot water (e.g., showers or hot tubs), as heat can compromise seals over time.
How to Protect Water Resistance and When to Test It
Water resistance isn’t permanent. Over time, gaskets and seals degrade, especially if a watch is exposed to water or extreme temperature changes.
Annual Water Resistance Check: Have your watch tested for water resistance once a year if you frequently expose it to water.
After Any Case Opening: Whenever a watch’s case is opened for battery replacement or service, a water resistance test should be performed to confirm the seals are intact.
Avoid Frequent Exposure to Water and Chemicals: Even water-resistant watches can suffer when exposed to soaps, lotions, or salt water. Always rinse your watch with fresh water after swimming in salt water and dry thoroughly.
Maintaining Vintage and Collectible Watches
Vintage watches require special care, as parts can be delicate or difficult to source.
Service with a Specialist: Choose a watchmaker experienced with vintage models, as some newer techniques or replacement parts may not be compatible with older designs.
Preserve Original Parts When Possible: Avoid polishing or replacing parts unnecessarily, as the original condition can increase value for collectors.
Minimal Water Exposure: Many vintage watches lack modern water resistance, so avoid exposure to water and have gaskets checked if they’re part of the design.
Cost of Watch Servicing
Servicing costs vary widely depending on the brand, model, and movement complexity. Here’s a rough breakdown:
Basic Mechanical Movement: $200–$400
Automatic Movement: $300–$600
Chronograph Complications: $500–$1,200
High-Complication Watches: $1,000 and up
Quartz Movement: $50–$200 for battery replacement; $200–$400 for full service
Regular service and maintenance are crucial to preserving a watch’s functionality, appearance, and value. By understanding service intervals, choosing the right provider, and taking daily care, you’ll ensure that your timepiece not only stays in peak condition but also continues to be a treasured item, whether it’s a cherished daily wearer or a valuable collector’s piece.